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Measuring

Measure your windows yourself — rough numbers are fine

This page is for sending us rough sizes so we can price your job faster. It is not the size we build from — that always comes from a fitter measuring on site, because a photo never shows everything.

Three rules first

  1. Width first, then height

    Width is left to right, height is top to bottom. Drop the word “length” entirely — it means different things to different people, and that is how a curtain comes out the wrong way round.

  2. Centimetres or metres only

    Curtain workrooms work in centimetres. Inches and feet have to be converted, and that conversion is where mistakes happen.

  3. Rough is fine — a few centimetres out does not matter

    Your numbers are for pricing only. The numbers we cut fabric from are taken by the fitter. So please do not climb up to reach anything.

You need three things

  • A tape measure (a dressmaker's tape works, it just sags a little)
  • One photo of the whole window, including the wall around it
  • A note of which room each window is in, so nothing gets swapped

How to measure, by type

Pleated, wave and eyelet curtains

  1. Measure the width of the opening, frame edge to frame edge
  2. Measure the height from the top of the frame to the sill — or to the floor if you want a full-length curtain
  3. Tell us which of those two you want: sill length or floor length

A curtain always uses more fabric than the window is wide — the fullness is what makes the folds and closes the gaps. Fabric cut to the exact width hangs flat and never closes properly.

See Curtain →

Roman blinds

  1. Decide first: inside mount (the blind sits inside the reveal) or outside mount (it covers the frame)
  2. Inside mount — measure the inside width at three points, top, middle and bottom, and use the narrowest
  3. Outside mount — measure the frame and tell us how far past it you want the blind to reach

Window reveals are rarely square — top and bottom usually differ by a few millimetres. Measure one point only, hit the widest one, and the blind will not fit.

See Curtain →

Roller blinds and wooden blinds

  1. Inside or outside mount, same choice as a Roman blind
  2. Measure the width the headrail will span (not the fabric — the fabric is always slightly narrower than the rail)
  3. Measure from where the rail will fix down to where you want the bottom to stop

For a genuinely dark bedroom, mount outside the frame and let the fabric run past it on both sides. An inside mount always leaks light down the sides.

See Motorized Roller Blind →

Vertical blinds and room dividers

  1. Measure the width the track should span — usually a little wider than the opening
  2. Measure from the ceiling or fixing point down to the floor
  3. Tell us which way it should stack: left, right, or split in the middle

The vanes need somewhere to stack. If the track is exactly as wide as the opening, the stack still covers part of the doorway when fully open.

See Vertical Blind →

Motorized curtain tracks

  1. Measure the track length you need in metres (we make 1–16 m per run)
  2. Say whether it should open from the centre or stack to one side
  3. Photograph the ceiling or wall where the track will fix, and the nearest socket

If you have curtains you want to keep, say so — we can change just the track and reuse the fabric.

See Motorized Curtain Track →

How much do we allow around the frame?

How much fabric to allow past the frame is a workroom's own convention, so we are not publishing numbers until we've confirmed ours. For now just measure the frame itself — the fitter adds the allowance on site.

Tell us these too — they change the price

  • A plasterboard ceiling — a track can still be fixed, but it needs a backing beam at 550 THB per metre
  • No socket near the headrail — for a motorized system an electrician must add one first (we don't do wiring), or you switch to a battery motor
  • An air-conditioner, beam or wardrobe in the way — it blocks the curtain and may move the fixing point
  • A ceiling high enough to need scaffolding — 500 THB per level
  • Old curtains to take down — 200 THB per unit
  • A floor-to-ceiling window — say so, and we keep the hem off the floor

Common questions

If I measure wrong, do I pay more?

No. Your numbers are for an initial price only. The build size comes from the fitter's on-site measure, and the final quote follows the real size.

Do I have to measure every window?

If they are identical, measure one and tell us how many. In older houses, or across different rooms, measure them separately — openings are rarely the same.

Can you just come and measure?

Yes. Message us with the room and how many windows. The measure is 500–1,000 THB in Bangkok and the metro area, credited back in full when you order.

Do I measure from the insect screen or the glass?

From the outermost visible frame edge. Leave the screen in place — where the blind actually sits is something the fitter decides on site.

Got your numbers?

Enter them window by window and the site builds a list with a reference code — or just send them to us on LINE.

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